Leaving Las Israel

The dig session ended abruptly but not fully unexpectedly early due to the war, when Hezbollah hit Tiberius. Students and some volunteers departed the kibbutz for Jerusalem overnight, then went to Tel Aviv.

Despite the circumstances, I found Tel Aviv fairly enjoyable. I split off from the group once we reached the airport after securing a ticket for two days later, then I stayed at a hotel in inner Tel Aviv directly off of the beach of the Mediterranean Sea. I had a chance to go swimming there (very salty but beautiful) and relax as much as possible under the circumstances. I had some nice Israeli breakfast, but my main meals admittedly came from the KFC downstairs. You haven't lived till you've seen Colonel Sanders in Hebrew.

Coming from a military family, I made a point to frequently look at my situation, imagine a worst case scenario and then think of what I would do. This meant such things as always keeping my purse stocked to leave in a hurry, having a plan to get out of the hotel if neccesary, or take cover where I was. My old earthquake drilling from when I lived in Seattle came in handy (stand in doorways when the building quakes). Being prepared makes it easier to relax. From that point I did what the locals were doing, mainly enjoy the weather and be aware.

I got a cab back to Ben Gurion airport at about 6:30am on Tuesday and had a very colorful driver who helped me wake up. The flight into Newark went smoothly (and I was happy to still get my 6000+ frequent flyer miles for my next exciting getaway). Connecting from Newark to North Carolina was something else however, thanks to a very nasty east coast lightning storm. We were delayed over five hours, which is one of the last things one wants to do after an 11 hour flight and a three hour layover.

My dog was incredibly excited at my return, to the point he felt it necessary to wake me up every few hours to remind me he was happy I was home, even though I hadn't slept in about 24 hours.

Now the big issue is the jet lag. And where I can get some fresh dates.

state of affairs...

Friday evening here in Israel. The dig finished off its second week yesterday with good progress. The second square of the street has been opened, although not deep enough to observe anything yet. Some team members departed so fewer squares will be in the works.

One of the things probably on most minds right now is the battling going on between Israel and its neighbors. When Lebanon became involved and military actions moved north I think we all became aware the situation was closer to our own peaceful habitat. There bomb shelters have been opened and Haifa has been hit, but that is going on well west and north of us. From my standpoint things are still calm on the kibbutz, and aware. They test military shells in Syria far away in the Heights, but close enough that we can hear them, but they did that last year. The only difference I've noticed is they did it last night, the first time I've heard them after dark. Also there is more jet action overhead. In the kibbutz they've started hanging patriotic streamers.

Those are the only changes so far. Nobody, including locals, has indicated any worry of harm to this spot. So I hope that is assuring.

The most happy-go-lucky ones now are the dogs. Right now four are running in circles in the water on the shore, barking and occasionally racing to the sand and back. I think I would like to come back in another life as a kibbutz dog.

-Rachel

Some finishing up...

Unfortunately for curiousity seekers and against all odds, there didn't appear to be a wooden coffin, just a wood board lining the bottom of the tomb. But the fact that it survived for over a thousand years is curious in itself. As of recent my squad of "street people" and I finished our square covering a section of the main street leading from the city center to the church. Our next stop will be some 12 meters south to open another square over what should be more street, but it also may cover new structures. Unfortunately right now Tractor Man (the backhoe driver) is plowing out some rubble left in the area so we haven't been able to start yet. This square will put us well on the fringe of the site, but is important as we learn more about the church's interaction with the city.

Kibbutz life is good. The happiest members are definately the "communal" dogs. They are well taken care of but also get to roam free about the kibbutz, like a giant dog park. They hang out in packs, frolick on the beach, consume human treats (and occationally steal them). Our group favorite is "Pookah", a long haired all-black dog with a dainty walk (she's also known as "Duchess"). She follows the team all over, from 4am on the way to the dig in the morning, to 8pm when we're passing around birthday cake (for Pookah too). Another popular dog is one that runs into the lake and picks up rocks, bringing them inland or tossing them. He also fetches them.

Right now Pookah is darting around on the beach. I'm sitting under a date tree, and unfortunately the dates are falling around me. Windy and warm, another very pretty day.

After much ado...

For the first week of this blog there have been technical difficulties, so I will have to summarize, but the blog is now up and running.

The hot spots of the NorthEast Church complex (aka 'the site') so far:
New gold has been found. Last year an amulet and three belt pieces were found near a cistern, probably one of religious and cult significance. After excavating the inside of the cistern, another gold belt piece has been found. One theory in the running is a 'wishing well' type of situation.

A coin has been found in a new square, date yet unknown. I heard the phrase "denarius" floating around (Roman coin) but I haven't heard any confirmation.

The tomb: this year the stone coffin (sarcophagus) from a previously excavated shaft tomb was removed to see what was under it. Underneath it is...more human bones, like what might be found in a very old wooden coffin. Nails, like from a wooden coffin. Glass, like could be found as tribute to the deceased in a wooden coffin. And wood that makes a hollow noise. A wooden coffin? We'll find out after excavations tomorrow. If it is, it's older then the other burials in the church. We are lucky to have a soil scientist and a medical doctor (who knows bones) working in the tomb. Another thought floating around: the bones found so far appear to be of two different people, an older and a younger, maybe a child. Not enough to tell gender yet though. Maybe a family, parent and child?

As far as my square(s), "the street", are going: we diligently plowed through rocks and dirt and pottery and glass and animal bone to find a street, paved with stone. To the east there is a nice wall, but we have yet to get a well-defined wall on the west. In one corner a couple of nails were found, perhaps signifying a door to a possible adjacent structure off of the street (that area has yet to be excavated). The square will be done in the next 24 hours. After that we will skip two squares to the south to look for a continuation of the street. That's maybe...20+ meters over. We will be on the fringe of the sight. More informtion on the street later.

Everything else on the Sea of Galilee seems just fine. My sprained ankle (happened on Thursday) recovered with rest over the weekend. Shopping in the city of Tiberius: so far one pair of copper colored tangling earring for 10 shekels. More will come.

-Rachel

Salve