Hello all! I am in Israel now! I have been here for six days, but unable to use the internet because it has been down on the Kibbutz. But, I have been faithful in writing a blog anyway. I wrote each day on my computer and I am now going to paste all of those writings in this post. This will certainly be a long post, but I hope you enjoy reading it! In summary of this week so far, it has been incrediable! I love Israel and I love digging and working on this site. I have learned so much already and seen so many amazing sites. It is pretty neat to be able to swim in the Sea of Galilee and tour around and dig in a church and discovery secrets of the past from centuries ago! I am looking foward to writing to you EVERY DAY now and hopefully the internet will stay working. Here are my posts for the past week...
SATURDAY, JULY 2, 2005Shalom from Israel! I am so excited to be writing to you from this beautiful place, rich in history, magnificent beauty, and historic, mysterious places that we will be delving into in order to understand the past better and our ancestors of the faith.
We arrived yesterday (Friday) at about 4:30pm Israel time. For those of you in Michigan it was 9:30am and those of you in Minnesota it was 8:30am. (Sorry if I am leaving out any time zones or states!! J) When we flew into Tel Aviv’s airport, Ben Gurion, I caught the first glimpse of this country. Although we were far on the outskirts of Tel Aviv, I could see it in the distance. After the 9.5 hour flight from Newark to Tel Aviv and an 8 hour time difference, I was a little bit tired upon arrival, but the bright sunshine and my excitement outweighed my fatigue. We boarded a bus after we found our luggage (and searched for Mark, another member of our team … he was stuck in Paris and will be arriving today). As we rode from Tel Aviv to En Gev (meaning “Springs of Gev”), Dr. Schuler pointed out several places from the Bible.
Throughout the ride we got a little taste of what Israel is like; the mountains run east to west in Israel with valleys between them. There were areas of flat plains and areas of rugged mountains. Our two hour bus drive ended after we passed the Golan Heights, the mountain range that is internationally recognized as the separation barrier between Israel and Syria. Our Kabutz is located right on the eastern side of the Sea of Galilee and from my balcony I can see Hippos (the city we are excavating) and the Golan Heights to the East of me and the Sea of Galilee to the west of me.
Today was a very exciting day! We had breakfast together (yes, Dad, I ate humus and will be forced to enjoy it!!). We all boarded a bus at 8:30 and headed for our first destination of a long and interesting day of touring around the Sea of Galilee. Our first order of business was to check out the site! We drove up the mountain to the Sussita (meaning “little horse”) National Park, which is where the ancient city of Hippos is located. Prior to this trip, I did not have much of an idea of what this ancient city or church looked like. Any prior ideas I had about the site were completely different! I was very pleasantly surprised and hugely impressed. We hiked a bit up to the site; during this hike (in the very hot and humid temperatures of Israel!) Dr. Schuler pointed out several interesting things along the path, including a stone pipeline that the ancient people built, going more than 10km in order to bring water from the Golan Heights to Hippos. A city must have two things: water and a defensible location. This fixed the water situation and we could clearly see that the defensible location was already taken care of! Hippos was located on the top of a mountain (300 meters above sea level … does that make it a mountain? I’m not sure, but that is the elevation). On the south and north sides of the city there are plummeting cliffs that kept the enemies out. There was also evidence of a mote (different that medieval castle motes with water … these were big trenches that forced the enemy to build a bridge in order to get to the city). After hiking up to the city, we first saw the entrance and saw where the main road of the city was reconstructed. Apparently in these cities the main road would run north to south, but in this city the main road ran from east to west instead because of the location of the city. In the ancient city of Hippos there was a cathedral, temple, and at least two churches. This city was destroyed by an earthquake; by looking at the remains of the cathedral, you could tell this very easily because the huge pillars that were in the church all fell at the same angle. The site was fascinating! There has been much archeology work done there already. From looking at the different sites of the cathedral, temple, and two churches we could already tell a lot about what this ancient city probably looked like. The site that we are excavating is one of the churches. It is the Northeast Church of the city. It was so exciting going and seeing what we could be digging! Much has already been uncovered there and there is still much to discover. All of these buildings are in different stages of the archeological process and it was so neat to compare them and see what may be discovered and what the church we are excavating may look like after we dig some dirt up!
After leaving our site we went to several other sites today, including the commemoration sites of the feeding of the 5000 and when Jesus caused a demon-possessed man to be cured by making the demon go into the swine. We also visited Capernaum, Jesuis’ hometown, and saw were Peter’s house likely was located. That was so amazing! It was incredible to be looking at the Sea of Galilee and be walking down the streets of where Jesus grew up and walked everyday while he was here on earth! We went to a few other churches and a reconstructed church at a monastery of what the churches that we are discovering at Hippos most likely looked like. What I found interesting was the layout of the churches. The front part of the church were the alter is located is called the aps and the aps is a half-circular area where the alter would be. Then there are three aisles in the church, separated by two rows of columns (the columns on the cathedral in Hippos was most likely 5.5 stories high … this is calculated because the columns were 9-10 times high as they were wide) and those columns consist of a base, the pillar, the capital (which is the decorative, top part of the pillar) and then a piece that connects all of the pillar together (I can’t remember the name of that). Then on either side of the churches there were often rooms where oil or olive presses may have been or rooms to store pottery. One of the projects we will be working on at our church is to excavate one of the rooms on the north side of the church because we have not unearthed it yet. We have no idea what we will find there!
I am writing this at 10pm on Saturday night. I am so exhausted from the day (and only getting a few hours sleep last night because of the time change). I just set my alarm for 4:20 so I can be out in the parking lot to head up to the work site at 4:45 tomorrow. I am very excited for tomorrow and the first day of the excavation! Stay posted!! Peace.
10:0 pm Sunday
*****************************************
SUNDAY, JULY 3, 2005Well, one day of work is over! What a fun and exciting day! Kat and I woke up at 4:30 and got dressed in our work clothes, wool socks, work boots and headed out to the parking lot in the dark with our backpacks on our backs and our 4 liters of water in hand. We soon found at (as we were walking toward the parking lot on the pathway that connected all of the buildings on the Kibbutz) that Andrea and Rachel were locked inside there rooms.
I guess I haven’t explained the room situation to you, have I?! Our team has been given several “apartments” on the second floor of a complex. We have all five rooms on the floor. Andrea and Rachel live in the first one, Kat and I live in the second one, PJ and Mark live in the third one, and Bill lives in the fourth one. The fifth one will be occupied when more of our teammates come in later weeks. On the first morning (yesterday) Kat and I had an especially difficult time getting our door open! You see, locks here in Israel lock the doors from the inside and outside with the key. It took Kat and I almost 15 minutes to get our key to work to get out of our room! Andrea and Rachel had the same problem this morning, except their key broke while it was inside the door! Finally by breakfast time (halfway into the digging day) they were freed and able to come and work.
Anyway … back to the day! We boarded the bus without Andrea and Rachel and rode up to the site with the Polish team and Israel team. Upon arriving at the site it was just beginning to become light and by the time we made our way up the mountain to the entrance of the ancient city it was bright (and 5am!). I was so surprised how quickly it got light and how light it was so early in the day.
At the site we started by pulling weeds in the church and on the walls of the church that has been excavated thus far. There were some large plants that were very difficult to dig up and some picky plants. I now have a brand new perspective on the story that Jesus told about sowing seeds in rocky soil, thorns and thistles, on the path, and in good soil. I certainly have experienced all of that already! Just a side note: there are so many small details about life or the land or things that I experience that help to clarify and give me a much better perspective about Biblical allusions. That is one of the neatest things that I have discovered so far! Anyway, as I go back on track … after weeding we carried several large poles and tools, etc. from the headquarters area (where we also eat breakfast) to our site. It was about a 300 meter walk from the two areas. We used the large poles to create tent-like structures (squares or rectangles) over the work area that we will be digging in order to create shade while we work. Shade is such a wonderful asset to any work site and it almost crucial in order to be able to work. By 6:30 or 7 the sun was blistering hot, but that shade certainly was helpful. After we got the shade up we worked on two work areas: one was on the left side of the church near the back in one of the outer rooms. They believe it was used as a kitchen because in previous digs the pottery chards that were found were from kitchen pottery. The other area that we worked on was on the right side of the church up at the very front. This is where I worked all day and the first thing that we had to do was to mark off the 5x5m area. Our entire worksite is divided up into these 5x5m squares that I use for recording the findings, etc. (I am the site registrar for small finds. I’ll tell you more about that later!) This area that we were digging in was completely covered with huge stones, weeds, small stones, dirt, and debris. We cleared it off by first pulling some weeds by hand. Then we got tereas (a special kind of hoe; pronounced tu-ree-a; it rhymes with Maria) and did some more hard core digging and pulling of weeds. Then we made our first big and exciting discover of the year! Kat, PJ, and I were digging in our area attempting to clear the debris and we found a wall! The wall is parallel to the wall on the other side of the church, but finding this wall (several large rocks places neatly next to each other in a smooth fashion) indicates to us that there is probably rooms on this side of the church too! That is so exciting because that means that there is so much more to dig up and discover. And Dr. Schuler was very excited and proud of us, so that was nice too. We continued clearing the debris. When we overturned the large rocks to move them, we had to check and make sure that there were no scorpions underneath them! I saw one scorpion today, but he got away before I could kill him. That was probably the scariest part because I don’t like poisonous, creepy, black, huge BUGS! Eh … I am learning to defend myself against those mean guys, though. For the rest of the day we cleared out that area and shoveled a lot of dirt and rocks out. It looks good for one day! Dr. Schuler was pleasantly surprised with how much we got done today.
Oh, I forgot to tell you about breakfast! All through the day it seemed much later than it was because we started so early. When we ate breakfast I felt like we were eating lunch because we had already been working for 3.5 hours. (I did eat a granola bar before going to work that morning, though, because I was hungry and until you eat something your organs don’t wake up and I wanted to make sure my organs were awake during those first three hours of work!) For breakfast, though, I ate bread that was prepared kind of like French toast, a hard boiled egg, cucumber and tomatoes (diced and mixed together … this vegetable mixture is apparently the typical “Israel breakfast”), a peach (it tasted like a peach-apple, though), and some sautéed onions. Talk about an interesting breakfast! I’m trying to get all of my food groups in though, because I want to make sure I am eating nutritionally and healthy.
After work as we were heading down the mountain to the bus to go back to the Kibutz my boot decided to fall apart and the entire sole came off! That was terrible because the layer between my foot and the ground was very soft. It felt like I was walking in slippers all the way down the mountain on the rocks! But, my feet didn’t cut too badly. At the bottom of the mountain my other sole fell off! It was quite disastrous for my boots today, but I did surgery on them when I got back. Good thing Bill brought “Shoe Goo.” I am attempting to repair them, but I might have to go to Tiberius and purchase some new boots. We’ll see how this goes!
Right now I am sitting in my room after lunch. Kat and I are going to go down to the Sea of Galilee for a swim and then we are going to shower before we have pottery cleaning at 5:30 and supper at 6:30 and church at 7:30.
Overall, it was a fantastic day! I am so excited to continue working and discovering what else is at our site. I am also very excited to see where they wall leads to that we found today. Even after just one day of work I can tell this is going to be a very exciting, rewarding, and adventurous experience with a lot of unpredictability. Until later, peace!
P.S. Just to let you know, Mom, my first and only blister is on my finger, not my feet!! I’ll send you a picture later. J
P.P.S. Thanks already for all of the emails! I would love to hear from you, so email me at
thompsoe@csp.edu and let me know that you are following the dig. I will respond to you all, but it may be short. Thanks!!
3:24pm Sunday
******************************************************
MONDAY, JULY 4, 2005Today was yet another wonderful and exciting day! Unfortunately, when I woke up and checked my boots to see if my surgery on them was successful, I saw that it was not. The soles on both of my shoes came off yesterday and I cleaned the surfaces and applied “Shoe Goo” and put rubber bands on them and put them under lots of pressure (a chair and a bench!). To my disappointment, the goo did not stick in the front and both soles kept popping off in the front. Luckily PJ had some tennis shoes that almost fit me, so after two pairs of wool socks, I was ready to dig! I am leaving in a little bit to go to Tiberius in order to buy a new pair of boots.
Today the dig site was very exciting. Despite the poor traction with the tennis shoes, I worked very hard and the team got a lot done. We worked in the same areas as yesterday, so I was back to the southeast front corner of the church. At the beginning of the day about a meter of the wall was visible on the surface and by the end of the day we dug a meter down and had 4.5 meters dug out. We are working in a 5x5m area and almost the entire square is level about 1 meter down from the top of the wall. It is so amazing to be a part of this! One of my misconceptions about this trip was that we would be digging for pottery chards, glass, tiles, bones, etc. That is not really the case! We certainly do find all of those things and we keep them and record them and analyze them, but the big part of this dig is actually digging up the walls and finding the floors, etc. That is so much more exciting! Today was especially rewarding because we went from having almost nothing uncovered to digging down a whole meter. Dr. Schuler was very impressed with how much we dug and I was surprised with how much quick progress we made! This job was not easy, though. The digging was rigorous, especially in the heat and sun. There was hardly any wind today (we could even see that the Sea of Galilee was not moving at all!). Anyway, today we mostly used the tereas to move the dirt, stones, and rocks out of the way. We made a huge pile of dirt and stones. Some of the stones were incredible heavy and many were huge! There were many stones that were stuck in the ground pretty deep and we had to wedge them and pull them and push them and maneuver them until they came out. According to Dr. Schuler we had to “have a love conversation with the rock” and provide it “a little gentle persuasion” … apparently this is very technical archeology talk … or just crazy talk! Hahaha, just kidding Dr. Schuler!
We also found a scorpion today! (Again!) This time I found it and I let Dr. Schuler kill it. Kat scraped the remains into a bucket and threw it on our dirt pile. It was a huge one, though! It was 3 inches and very black and nasty. We have to be careful overturning the large rocks. The crawl fast, but the Crowbar (as we call Dr. Schuler) swiftly killed it. Speaking of little critters, there are a lot of bugs around the site. The most interesting one (I think) are the beetles. They are huge! They are bigger then any junebug I have ever seen in the states; they are about 1.5 inches long. I generally try to dig around them because they get kicked out of their homes when we dig up the dirt, but sometimes I accidentally chop one of their heads off. We also see a plethora of different types of spiders, centipedes, smaller beetles, bees, flies, and other insects. I used to be pretty paranoid of any type of bug (especially spiders), but my trips overseas have definitely helped cure that phobia a little bit. This trip especially! I think that I am most cautious of the scorpions (because they are poisonous), so the other bugs and arachnids don’t really bother me anymore.
After we got back from digging we cleaned up a little (cleaning up for me includes washing my hands) and went to lunch. After lunch Kat, Rachel, PJ, and I went swimming in the sea. It was such a beautiful day! I love swimming in the Sea of Galilee. It is so refreshing and wonderful. After swimming for about an hour Kat and I went back to our room and took showers. Then I wrote this down and I am leaving in a few minutes for Tiberius to buy boots! More later. Peace.
Monday 4:24pm
************************************************
TUESDAY, JULY 5, 2005Whew! What an exhausting but fun day! When my alarm rang at 4:15 this morning I knew it was going to be a loooong day. My body ached when I sat up in bed and I had to fight to keep my eyes open and not reset or ignore my alarm. After I woke Kat up we stumbled out of bed and got ready for the day. Of course, one exciting part of the get-ready routine was my new boots! Yes, I went to Tiberius yesterday to purchase a new pair of boots to replace my broken-soled boots. That was quite an experience in itself! One of the members of the Kibbutz, Yo-val (spelled phonetically… I have no idea how to spell his name!), drove myself and three members of the Polish team to Tiberius. It is a 25 minute drive because we have to go around the south shore of the Sea of Galilee. (Tiberius is right across the lake from the Kibbutz.) When we got there we parked and walked to the shoe store together. We had to go to a few stores until I found a store that sold anything that resembled work boots. Finally we found one that had Coleman work boots. They were originally 439 shekels, but because it was summer he gave me a deal and sold them to me for 380 shekels. What a deal! He spoke all Hewbrew and I don’t speak any, but Yo-val translated for me and all went smoothly. So, I got my fabulous, comfortable, well-working boots!
Anyway… today was such a crazy day because of the weather. When we first got up to the site it was very cloudy and it wasn’t very hot. According to the weather report on the radio they were expecting the all-time low temperature of the summer. That report came true and the thermometer clocked in only a mere 85 degrees by 9am. It was “cool” all morning with a slight breeze, cloud cover until about 10:30, and it even sprinkled for a few minutes. Dr. Schuler, in his five years of working here, has never seen in sprinkle in the dry season. (Israel has two seasons, rainy season and dry season; rainy season is from November thru February and dry season is the rest of the year. It seldom rains in the dry season!) But, all this weather nonsense has a point… the day was a beautiful day to work because it wasn’t as hot or sunny so we could work a little harder without getting so dehydrated and tired. But, like I said before, I was tired when I woke up, so I was quite tired when we finished work anyway.
Speaking of work, we did quite a bit of that today! Every day is just more and more exciting because we are making such quick progress and discovering so many things! Today we worked on defining out square a lot more. Yesterday we had two sides very well defined and about 1 meter deep, but the other two sides were not defined or even marked out very well at all. So we focused on those two sides and we evened out the entire square. That was quite a bit of hard work and precision because those two walls are not walls of the church, they are just walls that we must create in order to maintain our 5x5m square. After we get that dug out we will continue working on the rest of the site and see what lies beyond our square, but we cannot do that yet because in archeology we have to work the method and stick to the method. (As Dr. Schuler said, but in different words.) So, we did a lot of picking (with a big pick, which is a very large and heavy tool with a very pointy end that we can get into small areas and wedge rocks out, etc.), removing large stones, and removing dirt. We remove the dirt and smaller rocks with the tereas and hoe the dirt into buckets to remove it from the site. Then there is someone who is responsible for just carrying the buckets to the dumping site. There are four people working on this square (myself, Kat, Mark, and Bill), so we rotate between picking, tereaing (That is a made up work by us… it is only supposed to be a noun, but we like using it as a verb. Dr. Schuler says we shouldn’t make it into a verb, but we like it as a verb. Two people terea.), and carrying the buckets.
After working today we all went to lunch and then Kat and I decided that we ought to wash our clothes in the Sea of Galilee. We wanted to wash some of our clothes because the laundry services here at the Kibbutz aren’t very good for the nicer clothes. So we bought some laundry soap at the general store and headed to the sea with our dirty clothes. It was quite an interesting process. It entailed Kat and I going into the sea with all of our clothes and coming out completely soaked, although we were only in about 1.5 feet deep! Besides our part of this process, we had quite a few onlookers who were looking at us like we were crazy. There was one particular lady who kept looking at us the whole time. I suppose it was a pretty funny sight to see two Americans washing their clothes in the sea and getting soaked by the huge waves coming ashore! But anyway, our clothes got fairly clean and I just got them off the clothes line and they dried, but it is not a pleasant feeling to be washing our clothes with wet shorts on! But, clean clothes are in our closet and we survived! I’m sure we’ll be out there again with our dirty clothes.
This afternoon after washing our clothes Kat and I tided up our living quarters because a new member of our team, Linda, will be arriving this evening. We cleaned pottery chards this afternoon and ate dinner and relaxed for a little bit. Then we showered and ready for bed. It is now 9:08 and my bedtime because we have another day of work tomorrow! So long and farewell.
Tuesday 9:08pm